At almost every festival you are likely to see circles of people dancing the sardana, Catalunya´s national dance, and one which resembles no other Spanish dance. Its origins are thought to lie in the graceful dances of ancient Greece which you can still see depicted on antique pottery in museums throughout the Mediterranean. One theory is that the Greeks introduced the dance during the period in which they maintained trading posts on Catalunya´s northern shores thousands of years ago. Others insist that the sardana was not practiced here until the fifteenth-century Catalan occupation of Sardinia, hence the name. In any case, the sardana in its present form emerged during the Renaixença (the 19C. Catalan renaissance) and had become so much a symbol of national identity that it was banned during the Franco period.

Sardana dancers link hands with raised arms, forming circles which grow bigger and bigger as more people join in. Traditionally, couples can join in at any point, but cannot cut in between a man and his partner on the right. When the circle gets too big, the dancers form more circles. One of the main features of the dance is its spontaneity - for instance, except on special occasions, dancers wear everyday clothes, (although the lace-up espadrille shoe is a perennial favorite for its pliability and comfort). People of all ages and ranks in life join hands and dance as if to emphasize that whatever their differences, they are first and foremost Catalans. The spirit of unity generated by the sardana is truly impressive. An extremely disciplined dance, the sardana calls for exact movements and expert timing, provided by a leader in each circle. For this reason, unless you think you´ve really got the knack, it's generally inadvisable for visitors to join in - one wrong move can put the entire circle out of step.

Along with the sardana, there are numerous other traditional dances specific to different towns or regions, often performed in local costume and evoking formative episodes of the area´s mythologies.

The cobla is the band which provides the highly unusual music for the sardana. It consists of eleven players, and is made up of woodwind and brass, together with double bass. The oboe-like tenora long ago replaced the bagpipe as the leading instrument. The music is repetitive and sounds like a very odd mix of Bavarian Um-pah-pah and Middle Eastern music. The most celebrated cobla band, and the official band of the Generalitat, is La Principal from La Bisbal near Girona.

The Catalans love any excuse to have a correfoc, a riotous fiesta of sparklers, firecrackers, and roman candles, where colles de diables, or brigades of devils and dragons, dance threateningly to a percussion band as they weave through a startled and delighted public.

Habaneras are the typical sailor songs that Catalan émigrés brought back from the Caribbean colonies. Named after the Cuban capital, these lovely sea shanties are sung in 4 or 5 part harmony, accompanied by guitar, accordion, and bass. Somewhat reminiscent of "napolitanas," habanearas are usually listened to while sipping ron cremat. The concoction contains rum, sugar, lemon peel, coffee beans, and sometimes a cinnamon stick. It will be brought out in an earthenware bowl and you have to set fire to it, occasionally stirring (with care not to spill and get burned) until it is ready to drink. The most famous festival of habaneras is held on the beach of Calella each July.

The traditional farmhouse, la masia, is perhaps the most emblematic and revered symbol of rural Catalunya. Whether in the mountains or on the plains, and whether the primary activity is centered on cultivation or husbandry, masias share common characteristics dating back to the Middle Ages. First of all, there´s the main doorway, usually in the center of the original façade, formed by a high arch hewed from large stones- the bigger the stones the wealthier the farmer. An ornate window or balcony decorates the second floor directly above the doorway. The main building is the living quarter, to which other buildings such as granary, stables, pigsty, etc, have been added throughout the centuries. Some masias have become enormous and can be mistaken for small villages, with their own chapels and fortifications, and many of those along the coast incorporated defensive towers to protect against frequent incursions by pirates. Mountain masias differ somewhat from those in the lowlands. The uneven terrain means that adding and extra floor is easier than spreading out, while colder climes require fewer and smaller windows, and in areas with abundant snowfall, the angle of the rooftops is apt to be more pronounced. If at first masias were constructions built in isolation, the expansion of many municipalities have absorbed and integrated them into the urban scheme, as one can clearly see in Torroella de Montgri, Tossa de Mar, or even in Barcelona.

Cala is the Catalan word for cove or inlet. While the Costa Brava is famous for the quality of its wide beaches of golden sand and crystal clear waters, it is the cala which is by far the destination of choice for the discriminating beach-goer. The cala is normally tucked away in some relatively unknown or inaccessible nook miles from the nearest town, (the best calas, in fact, are only accessible by boat), and though it may lack the amenities of larger beaches, such as showers and lifeguards, the cala is a magical place where one feels privileged for the intimate beauty that a typical Mediterranean cala provides. Set amidst rocky promontories and red cliffs, backed by pine-canopied slopes of sweet smelling herbs, there are calas for all tastes, some with little chiringuitos (make shift snack bars with a busy barbecue), while others are pristine havens for nudists who swim in the little sandy beaches or snorkel around the rocks. A wonderful way to see some of the best calas is to take the cruceros boat along the 22 km stretch separating Tossa de Mar from Sant Feliu de Guíxols.

Originally, tapas were free titbits served with a drink, on top of the glass (tapa means lid) presumably to keep the flies out of the wine. Nowadays, tapas has became the catch-all word for three different types of servings; montados, which is another term for the original tapas, is a bit of something on a slice of bread, whereas a half-plate is a ración, a full-plate a porción. Any bar will have some kind of tapa available at all times of day or night. A good tapas bar will have a seemingly endless selection, from fried fish, seafood,meat stews, cold-cuts and cheeses, to fried veggies, tortillas (in Spain, tortillas are a kind of omelette), and mushrooms. Tapas have become increasingly popular and sophisticated, and a meal of tapas can cost more than a set piece dinner. In larger towns, bars selling the best tapas are grouped together in narrow streets in the old quarter, and it is a ritual to move from one crowded bar to another sampling competitive offerings.

Cava, the sparkling wine produced locally by the méthode champenoise is known as cava, named after the cellars in which the wine is made. The headquarters of the cava industry is Sant Sadurí d’Anoia, half an hour south of Barcelona, home to the two giants, Freixenet and Cordoníu, as well as dozens of other producers whose cavas are also open to visitors. Although made by the some process, cavas of course differ from champagnes in that they are the product of different grape varieties grown in a sunnier and warmer climate. The difference in price between Champagne and cava is not a gauge of the difference of quality but reflects the cost of the grapes (currently US$3.35 in the Champagne region and 30 cents per kilo in the Penedès) and lower labor costs in Catalunya thanks to more advanced technology. Jan Read and Maite Manjón´s Catalonia. Traditions, places, wine and food. The Herbert Press, Ltd. is highly recommended for more information.

Catalan wines. Within the last twenty years, as a result of fundamental changes is the technique of vinification and the careful selection of the most suitable types of grape, the quality of Catalan wines has improved dramatically. In addition to the resuscitation of old vines, ‘noble’ vines from abroad were adapted to local climate and soils. As a result, Cabarnet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as other exotics such as Pinot noir, Gewürtztraminer, and Reisling are widely cultivated throughout Catalunya.
There are eight demarcated regions in Catalunya, administered not from Madrid but by Catalunya´s own Institute of Wine. These regions are Allela and Empordà in the north-east, Costers de Segre in the north-west; and Penedès, Tarragona, Priorat, Terra Alta and Conca de Barberá to the south of Barcelona.

Ir de copas, or going out for a drink, is a daily exercise for many Spaniards. More than anywhere in Europe, the local bar is replied upon as a sort of community center, and most visitors are astounded at the sheer number of bars in any neighborhood. A typical bar is extremely well stocked with a great variety of drink, and Spanish barmen are liberal pourers of spirits. A highball glass is normally served a third to half full. Carajillos are especially popular after a meal, and consist of expresso coffee with a shot of the spirit of your choice- anis, whiskey, rum, Baileys, etc. All but the top-notch Spanish brandies are clearly inferior to French Cognac, but are widely consumed and an excellent value for money. Sherry comes in several varieties, fino is pale, dry and served chilled; amontillado is darker in color and medium dry; oloroso is dark and heavy; cream is pale and sweet, made by sweetening a blend of olorosos. A small glass of beer on tap is a caña, a highball glass is a tubo, and a mug is a jarra.